Back In Japan: Day….13 I think…: This is now a Nihonshuu Blog!

When you are in Kyoto, check out the train station on the night, no seriously, no sarcasm. The place is bloody excellent, it is like a mini city all in itself. There is a shopping area in the lower two floors, lightshow on the stairs, a view of the city, skywalk area, glowing dancing water to music, restaurants. Oh and trains, but who cares about them?

Done a bit of beer hunting, found a brewpub on the outskirts that worked with several universities to try and recreate old styles which was cool, but the main story of recent days has been nihonshuu (sake) hunting.

There’s a sake bar build into the Jam hostel which has an impressive and very reasonably priced range of nihonshuu. The staff are knowledgeable and picked sampling flights for us based on our preferences, and very helpfully, had very good English language skills.

Now some of you who have tried your average supermarket available sake are probably wondering what the deal is. Sake, it’s that clear liquid you heat up and has a vague alcoholic taste, right?

Not here my friends, the vast majority of the liquid was served slightly chilled and the flavours varied from dry and crisp, full textured on the unfiltered, fruity and big bodied, or madeira and fruitcake on an aged version.

I went for the fruity flight and had one which was citrus filled into a grapefruit finish, one that was tangerine and plums, and one that was a mix of pear drops and marzipan. The unfiltered had aniseed and liquorice flavours, and the dry came with light banana notes. This is the good stuff. A flight of three cost between 1000, to 1,200 yen, and even the ten year aged glass came in at a reasonable 700 yen (so, roughly 8 quid for a flight, five quid for the aged). Most sake in restaurants and bars seem nowhere near this good, even in Japan, so if you are in japan, seek out a specialist Sake joint, and get the advantage of local knowledge to find something you will enjoy.

Finally, we rounded out the day in a capsule hotel, very sci fi looking, like a mix between cyber punk dystopia and the game Portal. An odd experience, tucked away in one capsule against many. Heading out to the next destination today. Will update everyone when I next get wi fi.

Back in Japan!: Day 11: Tokyo, and Thoughts on the Japan Craft Beer Scene In General

Today reminded me why I love beer hunting. No, not just because of the beer. I’m in Kyoto and decided to hunt down the Tingaara Bar, home of Ichijoji Brewing. Mainly because they don’t bottle so it was the only chance I would have to try them, and also because their beers sound weird.

Anyway, these guys are pretty far out of Kyoto town centre and since Kyoto buses are evil (Well, everyone tells me they are simple and intuitive. I just cannot work the bloody system out) I spent my time walking up there, then over to the Yamaoka Sake Shop Which was on the opposite end of the city. Between the two I walked a good chunk off city most tourists don’t see and talked to a lot of people.

While the beer is good, this is the stuff you remember years on.

Aching feet on the other hand are soon forgotten .

While we are on various forms of transport, Kyoto taxis seem a lot ruder than most in Japan. It isn’t all, but a few seem actively surly to tourists, which is the first I have encountered in my time here.

Anyway, back on topic. The beers at Ichijoji made me think about the Japanese craft beer scene in general. There was a lot of * infused beers there. Cinnamon, coffee, lemon and honey, etc, and looking at their website that seems to be their modus operandi. Almost calling back to the traditional ales where hops were not used, but with the ingredients as an addition rather than instead of. I’ve seen a lot like this around Japan. Tomato ales, Grapefruit beers, beers kind of like you would expect but with a unique twist. This seems a very Japanese thing. I’ve seen salad pizza, curry doughnuts, they seem to take every foodstuff and make it their own.

Now, that isn’t to say they don’t do your standard beer styles, they are taking the American craft beer style and running with it, but these oddities really stand out as them making the craft beer scene their own. I’ve tried a bunch but usually after I have finished reviewing, now I wished I had reviewed more.

For more traditional craft ales Yamaoka had the best selection of Japanese craft beer I have seen so far. Tanakaya had a better selection overall, but a much smaller selection of local beers. It is a tiny place but well worth picking up a few bottles from

Finally in today’s dose of culture. I checked out a temple with 1001 Buddha statues, and statues of the temple guardians. No photos were allowed inside so you will just have to imagine, but it was quite the sight to see. If you are in Kyoto check it out.

Back In Japan: Day 9: Matsumoto Beer Trawling

So we are in Matsumoto now, and , to my surprise this is a pretty good place for beer hunting. The Shiga Kogen brewery is not too far away, so it has some presence. The train station has a set of canned beers which turn out to be alternate names for some Yona Yona ales (Train stations surprisingly seem to have better than average access to good quality beer, which is odd) and Tobacco shops have a small, but interesting mix of craft beer.

What is exceptional however is oddly not the local beer available, but the Belgium selection. There is a local bar, right next to the train station called Ganesh (Shown above) This has a quite extraordinary amount of Belgium beers to fit in with its Belgium themed bar, and a smattering of USA, UK, etc. Now, for me, I was sticking to their rotation Shiga Kogen tap (a very tasty Buckwheat based beer which I have grabbed a bottle of for review), as the prices are a lot higher than I would pay in the UK. However considering the distance they had to travel, it is quite a treat for anyone in Japan where such beers are not as common. They also had a rotating guest tap but that was dry while we were there.

With less interesting beer, but a lot of character, there are bars tucked away with winding maze like alleys and cubbyholes inside. You get assigned a little alcove to perch in and order snacks and drinks by a phone next to the table. Very nice atmosphere which earned it the nickname “Ninja bar” for all the places to hide.

Finally, at the nearby Daio Wasabi Farm there was a Wasabi beer. Now, spoiler warning for the review, it was a tad crap, but what intrigues me is they didn’t list the brewery that made it. Now after a few discussions I think that it wasn’t a custom made brew, but a pre-existing beer they had just ditched wasabi in. Best guess would be Kirin Ichiban, but I’m not sure. If anyone knows any background on this beer, please let me know. Thanks.

Finally, in a touch of culture there was the Matsumoto black castle in the heart of the city, a great sight and with an excellent volunteer English speaking tour guide. A very pretty and informative tour, well worth a look in between beer hunting.

Next up: Kyoto!

Back In Japan!: Day 7: This is now an Umeshuu blog

Hello again, been out in Togarinozawa Onsen the past couple of days, a remote area of farmland, so beer experiences have been thin on the ground. To keep your interest I am now in Matsumoto, which is very close to the Shiga Kogen brewery, so I am expected beer now to pick up.

However for anyone who gets a chance, Togarinozawa Onsen is an oft overlooked but wonderful part of Japan. The Shikisainoyado Kanoe Ryokan organised working on the local farm, then they produced meals with those freshly harvested ingredients. You really could not get fresher or more delicious. They also made a wonderful Umeshuu (plum wine), you could only have it fresh, not bottled. It tasted like a mix of grapefruit, spiced blood orange, marzipan and plums. It was lovely. Possibly the best I have ever tasted. Tart, spiced and sweet. It was heavenly. If you ever get the chance the area is beautiful and you can go from bright green landscape to four metre high ice walls on the hills in a matter of minutes by car which was breath-taking.

Anyway, as mentioned, we should have beer news again soon rather than just my ramblings. Hope you enjoyed the improvised umeshhuu tasting note!

Oh on a random note, our tour leader bought us some Locusts to try. Not actually that bad.

Back In Japan!: Day 5: Yes, Actual Beer News!

So, last day In Tokyo, don’t know what internet will be like at the next hotel so may be some radio silence for a while.

After many mix ups involving wrong opening times, I finally managed to reach a small bar called Craftheads, just outside Shibuya. This place is great. Not as wide selection of taps as Popeye, but has a quality pick, and a bottle selection to die for. Three Floyds, Hair Of The Dog, including the legendry reputation owning Hair Of The Dog Matt (hmm, tasting note nine hundred is coming up shortly…coincidence?). I didn’t get a chance to properly peruse their bourbon selection, but as you can probably see from the photo above, at first glance it looks pretty impressive.

Very much the most American style bar I have been to here in Japan, probably the craft beer scene influence. There was even a tip jar, which is nigh unique for Japan!

Popeye is better for the local Japanese craft beer scene I would say, but Craft Head has those rarities you will just not find anywhere else. Both are great!

Anyway, quick other notes. Sushi using Sashimi from the fish market right next door is probably the best I have had in my life. The raw fish just melts and it was made with just the right amount of wasabi. If you get the chance, that is the way to experience sushi.

Before I go I shall leave you with large men slapping the crap out off each other.

Back In Japan!: Day 4: This is Still a Beer and Whisky Blog Right?

Not much beer news today. Spent yesterday hammering huge Taiko drums, which was awesome, then went to the Hama-riku garden and drank some green tea. On top of the ritual of drinking which was intriguing, the green tea was unlike any I had tried before. Much more cloudy, a frothy texture on the tongue an much more flavoursome. A great experience in the middle of the day with water surrounding me.

Green tea is a drink, that means I am vaguely close to being on topic for this blog, but not quite.

The food here is excellent as well, had some fresh fish tempura yesterday that just fell apart in the mouth. Had warm it was like it was melting.

Anyway, yes beer.

Tried, but didn’t tasting note Kirin: Heartland yesterday on tap. Short version. Meh. Body was much thicker than standard kirin, and had some nice light banana like flavour which was pleasant, but the finish felt chemically and really brought the entire thing down. Had a free bottle of Kirin Ichiban on the night as well, much less flavour than Heartland but the finish didn’t irritate me as much. Not terrible, but a bit bland. May be psychosomatic, but the version here seems less gassy than the UK version which I think is brewed under contract in the UK rather than imported. I could be wrong though.

Anyway, there, beer notes. My job is done!

Back in Japan: Day 3: Wanderings

Slightly recovered from jet lag and wandering the districts of Tokyo, getting lost in Shibuya before even leaving the station. No seriously, they have massive multi floor shopping areas built into their stations. I went down what I thought was a way out and ended up in a massive food hall.

Also met up with my friend Nick who showed me a massive Thai food festival that was going on in yoyogi park. It was packed, and there was much entertainment going on.

But you are here for the alcohol knowledge, no? I’ve mainly been trying the Nihonshuu (rice wine aka sake) and umeshuu (plum wine) which I wont claim to be an expert on, but I have been enjoying trying. There is such a large range here, and most far superior to what I could get in the uk.

Beer wise I have noticed your average shop will basically have sapparo and asahi, with the more adventurous maybe having echigo or yona yona ale. Food halls seem to be getting into the craft beer scene though and seem to have a reasonable supply of both local and world beers, hitachino nest, baird and the like being familiar to me, but there are quite a few more, so I’ve picked up some bottles for sampling.

Realisation of the day, W-IPA is not a white IPA, W is used to mean double here. It all makes sense!

Again sorry for the short update, trying to pack as much as I can in while I am here!

Back In Japan: Day 1: Tokyo and Jet Lag

A man in cardboard armour costume, being hit by another man with a giant purple snake. Where else could I be but Japan?

Only a short update as it is far too early and I’m awake due to still getting used to time differences.

As well wandering the serene Ueno Park, and various shrines while eating my first pocky of the trip I also have done some activities that I’m sure everyone will be interested in. and by that I mean beer activities.

At Mejiro there is the excellent Tanakaya Wine and Spirits, despite being right next to the tube I nearly missed it due to its discrete entrance, which I have pictured below to aid future travellers. Its beer selection is both more and less impressive than last time I was there three years ago. They have a more varied selection of countries, including a lot off European stuff, but this has meant their previously exceptional American Selection is now only very good, with significantly less Hair Of The Dog beers, Dogfish Head (understandable with recent reduction in exports) and no Sam Adams Utopia or similar.

Then again, the selection is still very good and the beer prices reasonable, especially considering the distances travelled. The Japanese beer selection is off to one side, and has a reasonable selection of the growing local craft scene. The Whisky selection is insanely good, but since I can get that much more easily and cheaper back in the UK I didn’t spend too much time on it. I did pick up a few Japanese beers to sample, and one very special American Beer: Their only Hair of The Dog: Bourbon Barrel Aged Fred. Oh yes, this should be nice.

On the night hit Bakushuu Club Popeye Bar. With about 70 taps of which 50 odd were on, this place is excellent. There is a wealth of Japanese Craft beers and a good chunk of NZ, American and British beers as well. Prices are not cheap at about 700-1000 Yen for a beer depending, but quality is excellent. The place was packed and the staff rushed off their feet (Ganbatte yo!). I had to pester a staff member a few times as my order got lost one or twice, but everyone was very friendly and fellow drinkers were happy to help when my Japanese failed me. One drinker donated a coupon for a free half pint to me which was exceptionally kind, and the staff replaced my half finished Imperial Stout with a new one when they dropped a glass on the bar in front of me, just in case any glass had gone in which more than made up for rush hour delays in beer arriving. Any beer fan in Tokyo should give the place a look.

Anyway, nearly breakfast, catch you all next time I have a free moment.

Tasting Notes: Brewdog: Tongue Tied IPA

Brewdog: Tongue Tied IPA (Scotland: IPA: 7% ABV)

Visual: Slightly amber gold. Inch of custard cream centres coloured head with a frothy look.

Nose: Lemon sharp and a juicy sweet lime. Distinct lemongrass. Sherbet like. Ginger. late on you get a touch of liquorice.

Body: Very lemon filled. Slightly sour grapes. lemongrass. Shredded leaves. Almost plum notes below in the malt base. Dry ginger. Toffee like malts.

Finish: Peppermint. Lemongrass. Bubblegum. Plum touch. Juicy grapes.

Conclusion: Summer brewing, here we are and…BLOODY HELL, this thing is lemon filled. Tart and with the level of lemongrass you normally only get with the sorachi ace hop. (Note: I have been told they used actual lemongrass so I don’t know if they actually used that hop at all). So yes very much lemon and lemongrass, you can almost imagine the shredded lemongrass remains on your tongue.

There is thankfully an offset flavour with juicy grapes and lime behind. On odd occasions you even get a plum like sweetness that pokes its head above the parapets every now and then. Always in the background but I will swear that it is there.

The main flavour though, as indicated, is the dry lemongrass, and also there is a ginger spice, very refreshing, yet dry at the same time.

The lemon is so strong that I can’t imagine having many back to back, but I could imagine slipping them in between heavier and darker beers as they cleanse the palette and refresh so well.

Very much enjoyed even if it is a bit single minded. A zinging refresher not a contemplation ale.  As a refresher it is unusual and very full on.  So, not perfect, but a great oddity to try and a great summer beer.

Background: Yes I’ve been reviewing a lot of Brewdog beers recently. They seem to have a new keg only beer on tap nearly every blooming week. Ah well, I enjoy their beers so can’t complain. We will be getting a nice dose of new breweries hopefully while I’m over in Japan soon, so will give you all a break from my favourite Scotland brewery. If It needs saying – I am not an unbiased actor on Brewdog beers. Anyway, this new beer from Brewdog Bristol, made by the “Brewbirds” – an all women brewing team at their new brewery. As someone who argues for more to make the beer scene more women friendly I consider this a good thing. Made with lemongrass, Kaffir Lime leaves and Cardamom – or so the twitter feed says.

Tasting Notes: Wild Beer Co: Epic Saison

Wild Beer Co: Epic Saison (England: Saison: 5% ABV)

Visual: Yellowed grain. Massive loose white bubbled mound for a head. Very excitable pour.

Nose: Dusty books. Sea weed sushi wrap. Black pepper. Touch of mild cheese. Bubble gum. Ploughman’s sandwich.

Body: Dry. Touch of dried apricot. Cheddar. Lemongrass. Chalk. Excitable feel. Peach sweetness. Belgium style yeast feel.

Finish: Black pepper on crackers. Dry. Lemongrass. Brown bread. Quite bitter.

Conclusion: That is not a trick bottle in the photo, the beer really did froth up that much in the pour!

A very rustic saison, very reactive which gives a mix of spritzy sparkle and Belgium yeast feel.   On one hand it is very down to earth in texture, with ploughman’s lunch aroma, and black pepper throughout. Solid and robust. Then, on the other hand there is subtle dried fruit that comes at the back and a well done subtle sweetness. Then, on the gripping hand, the whole things just bounces with lemongrass and bubblegum and seaweed wraps that just screams the sorachi ace hop influence.

It is a wonderfully competitive mix. Early on the hops dominate, but as I poured more of the bottle in and the beer got progressively cloudier the apricot fruit came much more to the fore.

Not an easy going beer, pretty dry and bitter on the finish, odd as heck in its hop use and pretty hard to pour without getting massive amounts of froth.  It is worth it though, and it grounds itself with that solid rustic feel, all brown bread and down to earth fillings below all those mad flourishes.

It doesn’t have quite the craftsmanship to unseat the insanely good Saison Dupont, but it carves out a niche as its own thing. Pushes together three distinct competing styles in one beer. The flavours don’t always integrate and don’t always work, but are always interesting. I am very glad they had this a shot though as it is the kind of madness I appreciate in a beer.

An acquired taste, but one I feel is worth acquiring. It is worth noting that it is much better integrated on keg, and a fantastic beer like that.

Background: Originally drank on keg at the York Tap, where I very much enjoyed it.  I picked it up on bottle a few months later, and had been saving it.   Anyway, after the depressing news that the ”xenophobic bigoted idiots in a smart suit party” also known as UKIP have been making headway in the local elections I needed a nice beer to cheer me up. So I broke this out. Yay. Made with the very odd Sorachi Ace hop which is a quirky favourite of mine, this lives up to the Wild Beers Co’s. promise of drinking wildly different. Incidentally this is a very lively beer, didn’t explode out when first opened but any attempt at pouring resulted in mounds of froth coming up in the bottle.